I would run outside and hear the liquid line banging against the condenser which is the sound i would hear…the liquid lines would be moving pretty hard and fast and then the compressor would shut off. I have a very similar problem on my outside Lennox AC unit. If I have to call someone out I can, but I try not to. 5. I would recommend that your unit is thoroughly cleaned and charged properly. Not sure what to do next. Then restore power to inverter then ICC. Top-quality, Rheem products with the latest technology, dependable performance, great warranties and excellent service. • Miswiring of communications (communication light on continuously). Reduce charge. If high static is creating high blower speed, check for air whistling through seams in ducts, cabinets, or panels. There are types of faults and problems with detailed descriptions, possible causes and solutions which may be recommended in the certain situations. cabinet, duct, or motor noise. I would suggest that you try to reset the tripped switch, usually by pushing it in with your finger. The heat pump/defrost control will attempt to start unit after the anti-short cycle time expires, when a high or low pressure control automatically resets, or when the heat pump/defrost control exits the lockout mode as the temperature rises above 5°F. I turn my multi-meter to ac, A~, and V and the leads on the white and common/black wire and it spits out 248+-. Hi Shannon! -Check charge level. Fan will kick off and board shows a low pressure lockout. I hope you can easily find and fix the problem. Steve. ... 2003 Rheem Classic 1.5-ton heat pump startup/shutdown in HEAT mode - Duration: … How our day has typically unfolded in the past few days: the outside unit cools/runs fine in the morning hours, until about 3/4pm (it does not matter if it is 70s outside or 90s), then does not run (the thermostat kicks on and the attic unit blows air but the outside fan does not come on), but then the outside unit is operational again about 4 hours later in the evening. Does valve operate correctly now? I hope you can easily find the problem and get it fixed soon. If the contactor on your unit has the contacts pulled in and both the compresssor and fan are not running then I would think that your compressor and fan are going off on thermal (over-heating) over-load which could be caused by a weak capacitor, low high voltage (make sure you have at least 220 volts high voltage) a restriction in your system (bad TXV valve, stopped up restrictor orifice, or unit has water in the system causing a restriction in your system when the water in the system freezes up over time). Most all that I have seen back in 2005 were not replaceable without brazing the new switch in place. Now…how to check that darn 24V. The unit is 3 years old and is a nordyne unit. Hi. Dirty copper piping or nitrogen not used when brazing, Adding flux before seating copper partway, Heating unit on (possible circulator fault), Low Pressure Lockout (short test Dins to reset), High Pressure Lockout (short test Dins to reset). If it is a high-pressure switch that is bad then I would suggest replacing it only if you do not have to break open the refrigeration system. But once the outside temp rises to the 60F range, it will repeatedly trip the high pressure sensor. - Check 5Vdc is constant between black and red at the sensor. It sounded like a generator sound that would last for 45 seconds before shutting off. -ICC will clear this fault and restart independently. - Furnace repair service heating installation HVAC ac repair heating rebate Hot Water Tanks, Boilers BC Furnace Vancouver Burnaby Surrey Coquitlam Richmond The next few months I struggled with this and brought in guys who all said I was low on refrigerant and changed compressor, contactor, txv valve…all with the same result. Being able to combine two products in one hybrid system is both energy efficient and space smart, too. We have not heard any buzzing from the attic. I wish I could upload a picture of what Im looking at for you guys. my condenser unit isn’t running. Some of the units carry a 10-year warranty. ), Improper superheat adjustment (Only applicable to TEV with adjustable superheat settings), Adjust superheat setting counter- clockwise, Valve feeds too much refrigerant, with low superheat and higher than mat suction pressure, Recover refrigerant, replace filter- drier, evacuate system and then nor- recharge, Dirt or foreign material causing valve to stick open, Recover refrigerant, replace filter- drier, evacuate system and recharge. 4. Turn off the power and clean with a garden hose. -Check charge level. I would like to suggest that you see if your fan might possibly be shutting off on you in the middle of a cycle or see if you have a restriction in your system by checking with gauges. I would need to know the capacitor specs (uf/mfd and voltage rating) to recommend a replacement. Evacuate and recharge. I am not familiar with the Goodman GSC13 unit that you have. The unit blows cold air until the sound comes and compressor shuts. I would suggest that you use an Amprobe if you have one and see what the amperage is that the motor is running. I would shut down the unit from my phone and restart after delay and it would work fine. If we didn’t notice the sound- the inside thermostat would continue to run and the air would not be cold. The RP14 meets the new 2015 energy guidelines and features a brand new modern design. Ensure that it is set to the desired settings. I always recommend turning AC units off during storms because this can be fatal with power going off and on, power surges and lots of water. I will leave that up to you as to whether you want to reinstall the York unit or install the Goodman unit. Tech said micro-channels are know for that and not a fan of the new technology. I do not like Goodman very well. If your TXV is not working correctly it can cause the compressor to overwork, overheat, and go off on thermal overload. If you let this over-heating condition high-pressure condition continue over several days then this could cause the compressor’s thermal switch to wear out (not reset) and ruin the compressor. This sounds like you have a restriction in your system. - Check Thermistor continuity. Each time I find that the HP switch has tripped but not tripped outside or inside breaker. Had the inspector seen it before we bought the house, we wouldn’t have made the purchase (with a list of other issues to add). We figured it was the coils freezing up and the fan running hard. Wires were rusted, taped in about 7 different places, muddy and wet, green colored exposed wires etc. In case of Rheem heat pump not working you should address these checklists. -Check the U/V/W output wires are correct. We have been swamped with orders today and I did not get a chance to answer. Is it common for these micro channel units to take a while to become stable and be touchy about charging rate ? However the problem persists…the outside fan stopped at about 5pm but was then operational at 9pm, after about 4 hours of running it. There is a really good YouTube video on the following page: https://www.youtube.com/watch?reload=9&v=Amo2eRlYrzg If you do not want to watch the entire video then you can skip to the 6:30 mark where the service tech explains why so many of the TXV valves are going bad. Sometimes I have seen switches trip for no reason at all. We Have Promptly Shipped Over 350,000 Orders Since 2002! It looks like the sensor can be easily replaced by unscrewing a nut but I’m worried that the refrigerant will escape. About the only way that I can suggest to tell what is going on with the unit would be to install gauges and see what the pressure readings are. Is there power going to the compressor windings when it stops or is something shorting out that is cutting off the power to the compress? When the Freon pressure gets too high the switch shuts off the compressor. Where’s The Reset On My Rheem AC Unit? If the unit is over 10 years old I would watch the unit closely to make sure that it is not running high pressure a let it run. A day or so later, when then hear a buzzing sound, but now coming from the outside unit. 5. Check law voltage connections (G,Y W, R ; C) at motor, unseated pins in motor harness connectors. Along with manufacturing many high-efficiency and standard air conditioners, they also make home heating systems, refrigeration products, and more. 700 psi is very dangerous and could cause leaks in your system. I would recommend testing the capacitor first. Faulty high-pressure switch tripping without having high pressure. For example, some of the issues that can be easily repaired by homeowners include:… Continue Reading Troubleshooting Problems With Your Heat Pump So sorry that you are out of AC! I am a renter in a building that just replaced one of our through the wall ac units last year. At that point, the outside fan was still operational and cold air was still coming from the inside ducts/vents , but still it was an unsettling sound nonetheless. -Check the U/V/W output wires are correct. Too hot to touch means that you probably need a new motor. So he by passed the HPS and connected the wire somewhere else so it will send power and the AC unit turned on. We simply offer the finest heat pump solutions. I would suggest hooking up some gauges to see what the problem actually is. When this hap- pens, the unit will enter a … I have never heard of an air conditioner’s liquid lines start vibrating so much that makes a loud noise. Most of the time high-pressure switches do not go bad very often. I have never seen a low-pressure sensor from the factory that has a Shrader valve. You would need to attach manifold gauges to see if you have a restriction, an actual high-pressure problem, or what the problem is. I would recommend that you have a tech install gauges and find and fix your problem. Air should come out of the top of your unit. With all power to the system off, would this not be indicative of a bad high pressure switch? Many of these problems can be determined by installing gauges and looking at the pressures to see what is wrong. Problems that would cause high head pressure would be a dirty condensing unit, slow fan motor, over-charge or refrigerant or a blockage in the refrigeration cycle. Previous owner/s had covered up the rusted, chewed up, taped up in multiple places, green and burnt colored, muddy and wet thermostat wires. The wires that are coming from the thermostat to the contact, were chewed to all get out. I have 24v coming from thermostat when calling for cooling, but contactor never gets it. Motor Fan? -Verify high voltage connections at the terminal block, filter and inverter are all tight. Basically mucked them up real good and then put about 7 band-aids on them within about a 18″ span. Perfect! Steve, Steve, Hi, thank you very much this forum there is a lot of useful info on here. - Check Thermistor continuity. I would recommend that you have your heat pump checked out to make sure that you really are not running high pressure so it does not ruin your compressor. I hope that you can hook up some gauges, find and fix the problem. If it was me I would bypass the valve by joining the two wires together that go into the valve so you can use your heat pump. After hitting the test switch on board the unit will kick back on and be good for a couple of days or so then go right back to low pressure lockout. When I clear the code by turning the breakers off to the unit, and put it on heat, the unit comes on and then shuts off for a total of about 3 or 4 times within a 10 minute window. Tnx, Hi! If you have any other questions please feel free to email us at support@arnoldservice.com or comment in the comments section below. We got the same tech (of course when he shows up the outside unit is running fine…) and he replaced the contactor (it looked somewhat burnt, he thought due to arching). Technicians can’t figure out what’s going on. We would love to answer your questions and have your business! I happened to reset the HP switch and the unit will run again for couple of days and turn off. 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